A slice of la dolce vita

Cruising through Italy’s history, flavors, and Renaissance spirit

By JOHN ROLAND LEGASPI

Summertime in Italy typically stretches from June to August, but the September breeze was still warm enough to make me crave gelato the moment I touched down in Rome. The Eternal City was my entryway into Italy’s treasures. By the time my plane landed at Leonardo da Vinci–Fiumicino Airport, night had already fallen. I was only staying for a night, but after checking into my hotel, I couldn’t resist stepping out. Though many shops were shuttered, the city glowed with quiet majesty, its streets bathed in golden light. The silhouettes of the Papal Basilica of Saint Mary Major and the Pontifical Sanctuary of the Holy Stairs stood like timeless guardians, while a steaming plate of lasagna became my first true Italian welcome.

The next morning marked the beginning of my real adventure: A cruise across Italy, with each port offering a fresh glimpse into the country’s flavors, culture, and timeless wonders.

Lemons, legends, and the Bay of Naples
Our first port was Naples, Italy’s third-largest city, and a place where the past and present intermingle seamlessly. The cruise planned three excursions that promised the full experience.

The first destination was Positano, the crown jewel of the Amalfi Coast. The air here is perfumed with lemons, and the journey to the beach—about a 30-minute walk—feels like a stroll through history. Narrow alleyways are lined with boutiques selling rugged linens, custom-made leather sandals, and vibrant art. The coastline itself is a painter’s dream with clusters of Mediterranean houses in sun-washed hues of pink, yellow, and white cascading down the cliffs, set against the lush green backdrop of Monti Lattari.

For lunch, we made our way to Sorrento, perched gracefully above the Bay of Naples. Famous for its turquoise beaches and lively Corso Italia, a 10-kilometer stretch of artisanal shops, cafés, and restaurants, the town feels effortlessly chic. Sorrento’s culinary pride is the Caprese salad, which I tried in sandwich form—perfectly paired with a refreshing lemon gelato.

Our final stop before returning to the ship was the hauntingly beautiful Pompeii. The ancient city deserves an entire day to be fully explored, but even a brief visit left me in awe. Walking along cobbled streets once filled with life, I traced the steps of ancient Romans through temples, bathhouses, and plaster casts frozen in time. In the distance, Mount Vesuvius loomed quietly—a reminder of both destruction and rebirth.

Echoes of the Renaissance in Tuscany
From southern Italy, we sailed north to Tuscany, where the Renaissance spirit lingers in every corner. Our first stop was Pisa, home to the world-famous Leaning Tower. Unsurprisingly, the Piazza dei Miracoli was filled with tourists, all striking playful poses to “hold up” the tower. After capturing our own photos, we continued on to Florence.

Florence is an open-air museum in itself, where every piazza feels like a stage for art and history. I marveled at the “Monument to Dante” outside the Basilica of Santa Croce and wandered through the Loggia dei Lanzi, where Roman and Greek statues stand proudly beneath the Tuscan sky. Yet Florence also hides quiet secrets—like its charming wine windows, or buchette del vino. Dating back to the 16th century, these tiny openings once allowed locals to serve wine during the plague. Centuries later, they’ve found new life thanks to Covid-19—and a little cultural spotlight from Stanley Tucci.

The city overflows with marvels: the soaring Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Michelangelo’s “David” at the Galleria dell’Accademia, and countless works of Renaissance genius. My only regret was not savoring Vivoli’s famous affogato or experiencing Gucci Visions. But perhaps it’s fitting—Florence always leaves you longing for more.