Silhouettes of fantasy

The transformative world of fall-winter 2025 haute couture

By JOHN ROLAND LEGASPI

Every January and July, Paris transforms into a grand stage for the art of design. Organized by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM), Paris Haute Couture Week remains an exclusive affair, reserved for a select few invited to present their creations. More than just a fashion event, couture week elevates dressing into an expression of high art.

The fall-winter 2025 collections stand as proof that immersing oneself in true high fashion still holds meaning—even in an era defined by fast trends and fleeting TikTok aesthetics.

Schiaparelli
Daniel Roseberry’s Couture 2025 line, “Back to the Future,” draws inspiration from Elsa Schiaparelli’s dramatic escape from Paris in the 1930s and 1940s. He merges futurism with Elsa’s surrealism through matador-inspired looks and the sculptural Apollo cape.

Zuhair Murad
Old Hollywood glamour reigned supreme in Zuhair Murad’s “A Sheer Desire” collection. It drew inspiration from Tinseltown icons such as Rita Hayworth, Greta Garbo, and Marlene Dietrich, resulting in a collection fit for a true femme fatale.

Viktor & Rolf
Viktor & Rolf’s “Angry Birds” collection explored the theme of duality. It featured 30 pieces—half stripped-down and minimal, the other half maximalist, adorned with faux feathers, voluminous shoulders, and dramatic collars.

Iris van Herpen
Dubbed “Sympoiesis,” Iris van Herpen’s collection centered on themes of ecosystems and interdependence. Humanity’s relationship with nature was expressed through dresses adorned with 25 million bioluminescent algae and alien-like sculptural designs.

Germanier
Joy and exuberance define Kevin Germanier’s “Les Joueuses” collection. Its childlike wonder came through balloon-like silhouettes, a myriad of patterns, and bright metallic hues—making it a truly campy showcase of sustainable creativity.

Maison Margiela
Glenn Martens marked his debut at the maison with a couture collection exploring “haunted beauty.” His masked muse wore pieces made of repurposed materials—plastic, manipulated organza, and leather—expressing his vision of decay and renewal.

Robert Wun
Dubbed “Becoming,” Robert Wun’s couture line explores transformation and the rituals of dressing. The runway featured garments adorned with red crystal handprint embroidery, false limbs, and trompe-l’œil tailoring, paired with theatrical headpieces.

Balenciaga
Demna Gvasalia’s final collection for Balenciaga was all about dramatic form. The collection featured bold silhouettes—think Nosferatu shoulders, cinched waists, and a cone-shaped, high-neck ivory guipure lace gown.